Intermedians. Dziuba and Johnson redefine the role of the jewellery wearer, making him or her into a co-designer - for it is only through public appearance and the act of showing the object that personal jewellery becomes an attitude and a (possibly political) statement.
"I believe every era has its own characteristic forms of expression, its own ideas and goals. This is reflected in art, and in fashion, literature, philosophy. I think jewellery should do that too." (G. Dziuba)
Gabi Dziuba (* 1954, lives in Berlin) and Jonathan Johnson (* 1976, lives in Hamburg) are two master goldsmiths who understand jewellery design as an artistic discipline and consciously position themselves between high and low. Accepting influence from popular culture, music, fashion and art, they design objects that have a history of their own, a world away from the mere costly fashion accessory.
Dziuba and Johnson redefine the role of the jewellery wearer, making him or her into a co-designer – for it is only through public appearance and the act of showing the object that personal jewellery becomes an attitude and a (possibly political) statement. But even at an early design stage, both artists already involve the future wearers of the jewellery closely in their work. This open attitude to new ideas and approaches is also reflected in their close collaboration with musicians and contemporary artists.
Thus, for example, Gabi Dziuba has worked together frequently since the late 1980s with such artists as Günther Förg, Martin Kippenberger, Hans-Jörg Mayer, Heimo Zobernig and Andreas Hofer – and not only on specific objects, but also on exhibition and catalogue design projects. Jonathan Johnson, for his part, may design rings, pendants or cuff-links in a process of intensive dialogue with artists like Franz Ackermann, Bruce LaBruce, Bobby Conn, Rocko Schamoni or Angie Reed. Both Johnson and Dziuba frequently make use of commonplace or clichéd objects, gilding them or embellishing them with precious stones in defiance of goldsmithing taboos and boundaries. In the hands of these artists, footballs, buckets, cow-bells, keys or cheeseburgers are so adorned as to become an ironic comment on the exclusivity of classical "pieces of jewellery".
The point is nowhere made clearer than in the form of a chain pendant forming the letters of the word "shit". Both Dziuba and Johnson have designed such a pendant, though at dates over 10 years apart. While the Gabi Dziuba pendant of 1996 is notable for the roughness of its surface, the smooth and curving surface of the counterpart piece by Jonathan Johnson is gold, promptly evoking associations with the ostentatious jewellery sported on the hip hop scene. Both these pendants unsettle the viewer; they aim to provoke and to express an independent attitude. In some cases all that matters is who is wearing it, for example the musician and writer Rocko Schamoni, who could not be further removed from the hip hop attitude.
At the same time, Dziuba and Johnson are opening up jewellery design to new and unfamiliar forms, styles, and contemporary influences. In so doing they are venturing a creative tightrope walk between the fine arts and artistically inspired craftsmanship. They are in fact a perfect example of the productive overlaps in differing fields and disciplines that the Kunstverein seeks to present and demonstrate through its "Intermedians" series.
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Opening: May 16, 2012, 7 pm
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