David Ter
Oganyan
Vito Acconci
Fred Adlmuller
Pawel Althamer
Apparatus 22
Erika Olea
Maria Farcas
Dragos Olea
Ioana Nemes
Hans Arp
Maja Bajevic
Giacomo Balla
Herbert Bayer
Hans Bellmer
Joseph Beuys
BLESS
Alighiero Boetti
Cosima von Bonin
Andre' Breton
Kaucyila Brooke
Daniel Buren
Hussein Chalayan
Christo
Die Damen
Ingeborg Strobl
Ona B.
Evelyne Egerer
Birgit Jürgenssen
Sonia Delaunay
Marcel Duchamp
Ines Doujak
Madame d'Ora
Max Ernst
Valie Export
Alexandra Exter
The Factory of Found Clothes
Natalya Pershina
Yakimanskaya
Olga Egorova
Marina Faust
Trude Fleischmann
Sylvie Fleury
Lucio Fontana
Marcus Geiger
Isa Genzken
Rudi Gernreich
George Grosz
Maria Hahnenkamp
Raoul Hausmann
Tibor Hajas
Roza El-Hassan
Kurt Husnik
Sanja Ivekovic
Birgit Jurgenssen
Allen Jones
Tadeusz Kantor
Ellsworth Kelly
Martin Kippenberger
Gustav Klimt & Emilie Floge
Jakob Lena Knebl
Milan Knízak
Daniel Knorr
Christof Kohlhofer
Silvia Kolbowski
Germaine Krull
Elke Krystufek
Friedl Kubelka
Yayoi Kusama
Maria Likarz-Strauss
El Lissitzky
George Maciunas
Rene' Magritte
Christopher Makos
Man Ray
Lucia Moholy
Regina Moller
Kolo Moser
Helmut Newton
Olaf Nicolai
Marzena Nowak
Meret Oppenheim
Ferhat Ozgur
Mai-Thu Perret
Lil Picard
Liubov Popova
Stephen Prina
Florian Pumhosl
Felice Rix
Alexander Rodtschenko
James Rosenquist
Martha Rosler
Ed Ruscha
Wally Salner
August Sander
Hans Scheirl
Klaus Scherubel
Markus Schinwald
Elsa Schiaparelli
Salvador Dali'
Johannes Schweiger
Kurt Seligmann
Elfie Semotan
Cindy Sherman
Niki de-Saint Phalle
Oskar Schlemmer
Nedko Solakov
Edward Steichen
Alfred Stieglitz
Warwara Stepanowa
Ingeborg Strobl
Struppi
Gerhard Stecharnig
Sophie Taeuber-Arp
Atsuko Tanaka
Wladimir Jewgrafowitsch Tatlin
Wolfgang Tillmans
Milica Tomic
Rosemarie Trockel
Nadim Vardag
Andrea van der Straeten
Franz Erhard Walther
Andy Warhol
Karlheinz Weinberger
Vally Wieselthier
Stephen Willats
Wols Erwin Wurm
Andrea Zittel
Heimo Zobernig
'Reflecting Fashion. Art and Fashion since Modernism' unites more than 300 paintings, drawings, sketches, textiles, videos and photographs by such artists as Giacomo Balla, Sonia Delaunay, Joseph Beuys, Andy Warhol, Yayoi Kusama, Cindy Sherman, Stephen Willats and many more. David Ter-Oganyan is the winner of the Henkel Art.Award. 2011. He exclusively showes drawings - a practice that he understands as an immediate response and commentary to everything that he experiences and that moves him. during the day.
Reflecting Fashion
Art and Fashion since Modernism
June 15 – September 23, 2012
The convergence of art and fashion had already been fully developed more than 100
years ago. Today, they have combined together in a productive crossover that
defines the creative expression of a new lifestyle. This summer, a comprehensive
exhibition at the mumok will embark upon a journey through the history of art and
fashion from early modernism to the present. Reflecting Fashion unites more than
300 paintings, drawings, sketches, textiles, videos and photographs by such artists
as Giacomo Balla, Sonia Delaunay, Joseph Beuys, Andy Warhol, Yayoi Kusama, Cindy
Sherman, Stephen Willats and many more. The exhibition will include works on loan
from more than 70 internationally renowned institutions and private collections.
"Let there be fashion, down with art.”
Since Baudelaire (1821–1867) fashion has been considered to be the epitome of
modernity. He understood them to be nearly synonymous describing them in terms
of the ephemeral, fleeting and the possible. The modernization of society was
reflected in the fashion consciousness of forward-looking artists, who at the same
time promoted new progressive role models.
Sonia Delaunay (1885–1979) was a French-Russian painter and designer who
worked both in art and in fashion in order to improve the image of the modern
woman. The exhibition includes designs for her famous abstract fabrics. With the
Futurists – especially Giacomo Balla – along with such artists as Sonia and Robert
Delaunay and Sophie Taeuber-Arp, modernism became more colorful and diverse.
Beginning in 1914 with the design of an overall, Balla transformed the idea of the
suit with ostentatious and dynamic reinterpretations. That Viennese modernism
played a part in this break can be seen in fashion produced around the turn of the
20th century with Kolo Moser, Gustav Klimt and Emilie Flöge and individual positions
within the Wiener Werkstätte.
Reflecting Fashion also develops the crucial role Surrealism played within the
interplay between art and fashion. With his motto “fiat modes – pereat ars” (Long live
fashion – perish art), Max Ernst claimed the ascendancy of fashion over art. The
legendary fashion designers Elsa Schiaparelli (1890-1973) and Coco Chanel (1883–
1971) were closely associated with art.
An important moment was Schiaparelli’s famous “lobster dress” (Woman’s Dinner
Dress, 1937), which she created together with Salvador Dali in reference to his
“lobster telephone” (Téléphone-homard, 1936) that was first shown at the Exposition
Internationale du Surréalisme in Paris in 1938.
Between 1939 and 1971, the Spanish artist designed four covers for Vogue, which
also dedicated a series of photographs to the lobster-print dress.
“Everything will be art, and then nothing will be art...”
Fashion was popular in the innovative movements of the 1960s – Pop Art, Fluxus
and Neodada. Performative and intermedial experimentation would increasingly
define the artistic approach to the subject.
Especially the Pop Art icon Andy Warhol was a perfect example of how art, fashion,
glamor and business could combine to form an artistic synthesis. Reflecting Fashion
presents Warhol as a model and as a trendsetter.
Also represented in the exhibition are, for example, Yayoi Kusama’s Golddress
(1966) made with pasta along with Christo’s oversized Wedding Dress (1967), which
during a fashion show at an exhibition opening in Philadelphia was for the first time
pulled through the room by a model, providing a critical and ironic commentary on
fashion. A further important aspect is represented by feminist works by Martha
Rosler, Sanja Iveković and VALIE EXPORT.
Contemporary Art and Fashion
The mumok exhibition documents how artists have worked together with designers
since the beginning of the modernism, and how beginning in the 1980s,
increasingly close connections were formed between the genres.
The world of art and fashion would increasingly take on an important place in
everyday life and develop into big business, as international collaborations between
artists, designers and other creative professions gained more and more public
attention.
The American photographer Cindy Sherman, also in the exhibition, worked with
different fashion labels including Comme des Garçons, Issey Miyake and Balenciaga.
Sylvie Fleury’s Formula 1 Dress (1999) produced by Hugo Boss played with the cult-
object quality of Mika Häkkinen’s racing suit.
The Austrian artist Erwin Wurm created a sculpture for Hermès and Elfie Semotan -
whose fashion photographs inspired some of Martin Kippenberger’s paintings – and
who also has a long-standing working relationship with the fashion designer
Helmut Lang.
Many contemporary artists, including Pawel Althamer, Milica Tomić and Maja Bajević
understand fashion as an “art of memory” – where clothing becomes a tool or
material. Born in 1967 in Sarajevo, the artist Maja Bajević sewed Yugoslavia together
as a new dress in Dressed up (1999) and with this translated memory into the textile.
The exhibition was designed by Susanne Neuburger in collaboration with Barbara
Rüdiger and will be opened in parallel to the Summer of Fashion in the
MuseumsQuartier Vienna.
Catalog
The catalog of the exhibition is devoted to individual topics such as fashion and
modernism, Surrealism and the 1960s, fashion and the avant-garde, and clothing
and architecture. It includes a foreword by Karola Kraus and texts by Hans-Georg von
Arburg, Elena Esposito, Silvia Eiblmayr, Elfriede Jelinek, Susanne Neuburger, Barbara
Rüdiger and Angela Völker.
Exhibition
The exhibition display also deals with questions of fashion and was designed by the
artists Julia Hohenwarter and Liesl Raff.
Artists and designers in the exhibition:
Vito Acconci / Fred Adlmüller / Pawel Althamer / Apparatus 22 (Erika Olea, Maria
Farcas, Dragos Olea, Ioana Nemes) / Hans Arp / Maja Bajević / Giacomo Balla /
Herbert Bayer / Hans Bellmer / Joseph Beuys / BLESS / Alighiero Boetti / Cosima
von Bonin / André Breton / Kaucyila Brooke / Daniel Buren / Hussein Chalayan /
Christo / Die Damen (Ingeborg Strobl, Ona B., Evelyne Egerer, Birgit Jürgenssen) /
Sonia Delaunay / Marcel Duchamp / Ines Doujak / Madame d’Ora / Max Ernst /
VALIE EXPORT / Alexandra Exter / The Factory of Found Clothes (Natalya Pershina-
Yakimanskaya, Olga Egorova) / Marina Faust / Trude Fleischmann / Sylvie Fleury /
Lucio Fontana / Marcus Geiger / Isa Genzken / Rudi Gernreich/ George Grosz /
Maria Hahnenkamp / Raoul Hausmann / Tibor Hajas / Róza El-Hassan / Kurt Husnik
/ Sanja Iveković / Birgit Jürgenssen / Allen Jones / Tadeusz Kantor / Ellsworth Kelly
/ Martin Kippenberger / Gustav Klimt & Emilie Flöge / Jakob Lena Knebl / Milan
Knížák / Daniel Knorr / Christof Kohlhöfer / Silvia Kolbowski / Germaine Krull /
Elke Krystufek / Friedl Kubelka / Yayoi Kusama / Maria Likarz-Strauss / El Lissitzky /
George Maciunas / René Magritte / Christopher Makos / Man Ray / Lucia Moholy /
Regina Möller / Kolo Moser / Helmut Newton / Olaf Nicolai / Marzena Nowak /
Meret Oppenheim / Ferhat Özgür / Mai-Thu Perret / Lil Picard / Liubov Popova /
Stephen Prina / Florian Pumhösl / Felice Rix / Alexander Rodtschenko / James
Rosenquist / Martha Rosler / Ed Ruscha / Wally Salner / August Sander / Hans
Scheirl / Klaus Scherübel / Markus Schinwald / Elsa Schiaparelli & Salvador Dalí /
Johannes Schweiger / Kurt Seligmann / Elfie Semotan / Cindy Sherman / Niki de
Saint Phalle / Oskar Schlemmer / Nedko Solakov / Edward Steichen / Alfred
Stieglitz / Warwara Stepanowa / Ingeborg Strobl / Struppi (Gerhard Stecharnig) /
Sophie Taeuber-Arp / Atsuko Tanaka / Wladimir Jewgrafowitsch Tatlin / Wolfgang
Tillmans / Milica Tomić / Rosemarie Trockel / Nadim Vardag / Andrea van der
Straeten / Franz Erhard Walther / Andy Warhol / Karlheinz Weinberger / Vally
Wieselthier / Stephen Willats / Wols / Erwin Wurm / Andrea Zittel / Heimo Zobernig
Special thanks go to the main sponsors of the exhibition Art Photography Fund, along with
Backhausen and ERSTE Foundation and the media partners Der Standard, FM4 and Wien live.
--
David Ter-Oganyan
June 15 – September 2, 2012
The winner of the Henkel Art.Award. 2011 David Ter-Oganyan was born in 1981 in
Rostov-on-Don and currently lives in Moscow. The mumok will host his first solo
museum exhibition which will later be shown in the Multimedia Art Museum, Moscow
(MAMM).
Drawing as a means of immediate response
David Ter-Oganyan works with many different media. His oeuvre consists of
paintings, drawings, object art, photography and video – in addition to collectively
realized actions, installations, and various projects – including curatorial activities.
At the mumok, Ter-Oganyan will exclusively show drawings – a practice that he
understands as an immediate response and commentary to everything that he
experiences and that moves him during the day. The breadth of the subject
matter he deals with in these drawings is extensive, ranging from personal
experience and existential reflections on art to the analysis of social and political
life in Russia. Violence and the necessity of opposing it are central themes of his
work. His formal repertoire is varied, including both abstraction and figurative
representation. For several years, Ter-Oganyan has made most of his drawings on
the computer and they are then transferred to different media, printing them on
paper or canvas, or presenting them in slide-shows. The exhibition at the mumok
includes a room-sized installation with multiple slide projections.
Critical-activist strategies
David Ter-Oganyan was an important protagonist of actionist-activist tendencies
in Russian art during the 1990s and 2000s that were critical both of the art world
and the political system. As part of the accompanying discourse on the relevance
and potential of artistic work caught between social and political reflection, on the
one hand, and artistic autonomy, on the other, he has taken a position that links
the two poles in a unique amalgamation. Particularly his drawings show how
activist-critical strategies can be connected to specific forms, based on
reflections on the history of art.
Artistic education and development
His father the activist artist Avdey Stepanovich Ter-Oganyan, a central figure in
the Moscow art scene during the 1990s no doubt played an important role in
David Ter-Oganyan’s artistic development. Avdey Ter-Oganyan made a legendary
performance in the exhibition hall Manege entitled Desecration of Holy Objects on
December 4, 1998. During the performance, he chopped up photographic
reproductions of religious icons to openly criticize the complicity of the church
with political and financial power in post-Soviet Russia. The performance resulted
in criminal charges being made against the artist who now lives in self-exile in
Prague. Before this, Avdey Ter-Oganyan had run an art school in Moscow that his
son also attended. Another person who played a formative role in David Ter-
Oganyan’s life was the teacher, artist, theorist and political activist Anatoly
Osmolovsky whose actions, exhibitions and manifestos were also made in
opposition to the complicity of capital and power in politics and the arts. The
magazine Radek – named after Karl Radek, onetime associate of Lenin – later
became the name of the artist collective that worked together until 2004/2005 in
which Osmolovsky, Avdey Ter-Oganyan and their students and other younger
artists were active. David Ter-Oganyan was one of the principal figures in this
group and instigated many of its activities.
Pussy Riot on the Cover
The drawing of the Muscovite feminist artist group Pussy Riot on the cover of his
catalog can be seen as the expression of David Ter-Oganyan’s activist approach
to art, as well as his conviction of the necessity of collective action. With their
recent sensational and increasingly internationally covered performances, Pussy
Riot has set off an important debate in Russia. On February 21, 2012, as punk
rockers with masked faces, they sang “Holy Mary, blessed Virgin, be rid of Putin!”
in the Christ the Savior Cathedral – a clear statement against the collusion of the
Church and political power in Russia. Three of the artists suspected to have
participated in the action have since been held in custody by the authorities. They
face long prison sentences that are intended to act as a deterrent. 14 well-known
Austrian art institutions including the mumok have expressed their concern in an
open letter – with four more joining the list after its publication.
Catalog
The artist based his mumok catalog on magazines that Henkel produces for its
employees and clients. It will be in German, English and Russian and will include
forewords by Karola Kraus and Eva Badura-Triska (mumok) along with a
comprehensive essay by Constantin Bokhorov.
Henkel Art.Award.
Since 2002, Henkel Central Eastern Europe (CEE) in cooperation with the mumok
and KulturKontakt Austria has awarded the € 7,000 prize to artists working in
central and eastern Europe.
Short biography of David Ter-Oganyan
Russian artist and curator. Born in 1981 in Rostov-on-Don, lives in Moscow.
1997–1999: Avdey Ter-Oganian Art School, Anatoly Osmolovsky Seminars
1998–2005: Co-founder and member of Radek Community
1998–1999: took part in Anatoly Osmolovsky’s actions: Against All Parties,
Barricade, and Mausoleum
2000-2005: took part in activities of the Radek Community
Since 2003: gallery solo exhibitions in Moscow, Perm, Prague, and Milan;
numerous international group exhibitions since 2001 including Museum of
Contemporary Art New York (2011), Fondazione Sandretto Re Rebaudengo,
Torino (2010), Künstlerhaus Wien, Vienna (2009), Moscow Museum of Modern
Art (2009), PinchukArtCentre, Kiev (2009), 10th International Istanbul Biennial
(2007), Knoll Galéria, Budapest (2006) or manifesta 4, Frankfurt/Main (2002).
Special thanks to Henkel and the media partners Der Standard and Ö1.
Press information David Ter-Oganyan June 2012
Image: Cindy Sherman, Untitled (# 217), 1984/1990. Color photograph 129 x 84 cm. Courtesy Sammlung Essl, Klosterneuburg. Foto: Photoatelier Laut, Wien © Cindy Sherman
Press Contact
Eva Engelberger
T +43 1 52500-1400
eva.engelberger@mumok.at
Barbara Hammerschmied
T +43 1 52500-1450
barbara.hammerschmied@mumok.at
Fax +43 1 52500-1300
press@mumok.at
www.mumok.at
Press Conference: June 14, 2012, 10 a.m.
Opening: June 14, 2012, 7 p.m.
museum moderner kunst
stiftung ludwig wien
Museumsplatz 1 | 1070 Vienna
Monday: 2.00 p.m.–7.00 p.m.
Tuesday to Sunday: 10.00 a.m.–7.00 p.m.
Thursday: 10.00 a.m.–9.00 p.m.
Admission:
Normal: € 9,-
Reduced: € 7,20
Seniors, Groups of 10 or more, Club Ö1, Wien-Karte, DER STANDARD-subscribers
Reduced: € 6,50
Students up to 27 years of age, compulsory alternative draft, unemployed
Free entry: € 0,-
Children and young persons under 19, members of the Association of Friends of the Visual Arts, Annual Pass holders, IAA-members, bearers of the 'Hunger auf Kunst und Kultur' ID card.